Microplastics in Raja Ampat

Microplastics in Raja Ampat

 A month has passed on Expedition Plastic, during which we have celebrated Christmas, New Year’s Eve and a couple of birthdays on our little steel ship. We have decorated the helm with palm leaves for Christmas, made our own birthday decorations from reused plastic and for all our efforts we finally arrived at Raja Ampat two days before New Year’s Eve. The kingdom of the four kings. An oceanic kingdom that seems to be comprised of more islands than people, and more kilometres of coastline than square kilometres of islands. With a mix of surprise and realism we also encountered our old enemy, plastic pollution.

Safe and moored to shore!

We arrived at the biggest island, Waigeo at night on the 29th December. As we dropped anchor, we had only the moonlight to guide us from above and the glowing plankton lighting up the ships movement from beneath. Finally we could go to bed, having arrived at our destination. The last thing I noticed before I went to sleep was the schooners swaying calmly around us, making it look like a lazaret for sleeping ships. We had come to the right place.

The next day we weighed anchor, and sailed the last 200 meters into the marina of Waisai and threw our mooring lines to the quay for the first time since leaving Jayapura. It felt great and we literally stomped and danced around on the wooden dock. 

Living on the edge between a plastic free hotel and a city of plastic.

The marina was a part of a diving resort, whose facilities we could use freely. That led to a lot of chilling at the poolside and drinking coconuts with reusable steel straws. The hotel had a zero-single-use-plastic policy. Trying to make a statement to inspire its guests to treat their islands and environment with thought. We were pleasantly surprise by this initiative. Though the city that revealed itself when we stepped through the hotel gates was as similar to Jayapura and the other towns we visited as it could possibly be. 

With plastic thrown along the roadside, no trashcans in sight and plastic bags blowing across the streets, from its happy owners at the busy marketplace. The contrast between the fancy hotel and the city itself paints a picture of the difficulties around the plastic-solving process in Indonesia. The difference between the private luxury hotels resources and the rest of the public city was undeniable. Outside of the private hotel, there were no incitements and campaigns from the state to engage its citizens to take a stand. That makes it hard for the normal Indonesian citizen to change habits for an ambiguous plastic problem, instead of continuing work, production and consumer habits that is bringing food to the table every night. 

Catching microplastics alongside shark whales

On our way to Waisai we left a lavish green coastline behind us, to set out into the blue bay of Teluk Cenderawasih, with only the small coral islands separating us from the open Pacific. On deck the crew begin to rig the ship ready to set the big manta trawl. For the first time at sea on this expedition we are documenting plastic pollution in the ocean!

 We use eight different ropes to secure and adjust the mantatrawl, so that it can be thrown over the railing and towed three meters away from the side of the ship. In one hour, approximately 3000m2 of water will flow through the 60 cm wide trawl-opening to collect the microplastics. Counting down from three everybody is on their designated post. The helm person sticking on course, lowering our speed to three knots. One person to write down the exact time and our precise position. Two others on deck to throw the trawl in the water. A fourth to document the whole operation on camera. A huge plash, then a few wobbly seconds follow, the trawl looking like an angry fish caught on a hook. Then the trawl adjusts itself halfway submerged in water and continues elegantly across the surface on a mission.

Unfortunately microplastics are not only caught on purpose of expedition ships like ours. In this area the population of whale sharks is the only one in the world that does not migrate throughout their lifespan. That is believed to be the result of a perfect food supply, which for whalesharks are plankton and alevin. But microplastic has made its way into their feeding grounds, and that can only be harmful to their health.

Yay we found plastic! Or no, I mean damn..

We bring the trawl up on deck after an hour. Now the work of sorting the microplastic from the organic sediments begin. At first glance there is only green and blue plankton to see, the deep blue water flowing by us, doesn't give any hint of plastic either. But after using a magnifying glass, tweezers and a special strainer in three layers, microplastic starts to reveal itself among the big amounts of plankton. Before thinking I burst out a big yay when I discover my first piece of plastic! Proudly I flash the piece to Torsten Geertz, the expedition leader. The next second I realize that my excitement is extremely misplaced and I am overwhelmed by a sadness of how problematic my first-hand discovery is. 

We go through the rest of the trawl and analyse the pieces in different categories of plastic before making an overall count. Torsten does the final calculation, so the result can be added to the database. The result indicates that there are 7000 pieces of plastic pr. Km2. That is a disturbingly high concentration. Torsten explains that it is only in the infamous "gyres", where the big ocean currents meet and by the coast of big cities, that Expedition plastic has found such a high concentration of plastic in the ocean. Unfortunately the animals around here do not have special equipment to separate the plastic from their normal food, therefore we humans must be the ones to react and use more resources to prevent more plastic to end up in the ocean! 

At last a late happy New Year here from Indonesia. Let’s hope we will get a less plastic filled year and cleaner oceans by creating more awareness and working harder!

 

 

 

Jayapura, a plastic paradise

After a 24 hour flight, three transfers and constant headbanging on my neighbour’s shoulder I landed in hectic Jayapura. On my way here I both ignored and dwelled with the absurdity and guilt of flying towards the sustainable plastic expedition. When I later received what can best be described as a plastic bag with plastic (single use toiletries) on the airplane I was reminded how this can’t just be treated as a problem on specific locations. I’m not flying towards the plastic pollution, I’m already a part of it. Luckily things are slowly changing and opening up for discussing before indisputable truths.

A paradise with no trash cans

To my relief no plastic islands was to spot when I flew over the beautiful green islands and blue ocean on arrival. It looked like animated pictures from the story of Treasure Island. But after arrival it was obvious that I landed in the middle of a city build on contrasts. With green jungle popping up between colorful houses of wood and metal, I had a feeling of one of the other was about to consume the other totally in either thick jungle or buzzing settlements. After a closer view from the car through the busy streets of Jayapura, the trash became a part of the landscape, a dominant one. All the way from the airport to Dokk 9, where Y/S Christianshavn where swaying on dirty water, there where no trash cans to see. Why should there, when there is no system to empty it?

A mangrove forest we visited with so much plastic that it makes it difficult for the trees to create new roots and absorb the right nourishment

A typical day off on the beach is a constant reminder on the omnipresent pollution.

The smell of burning plastic

Every night a thick smell fills the air, and smoke rises like dancing rattlesnakes from numerous locations in town. It’s time for the daily trash burning. The trash is collected and burned, so that the kitchen floor and terrace of the small wooden houses again is ready for the daily repetition of cooking, gatherings and cleaning. That is unfortunately a common practice in West Papua. But we have learned that it has nothing to do with people not caring about the problem or consequences, instead it has everything to do with a system with too little capacity and not enough communication or encouragement on the subject. 

The plastic bank is filled up, but missing money 

After China, Indonesia is the country who pollutes our oceans the most, with plastic. Though that does not mean that the country or the population doesn’t care about the problem. On a national level we have seen that there is an increasing awareness of plastic. The government has issued a competition among the provinces in Indonesia to take the most initiative and actions in a sustainable direction including the battling of plastic pollution to gain points and in the end a price. 

In West Papua the authorities are cooperating with the organization Bank Samphat (Samphat means trash, a trash bank) who makes new initiatives, activities and creates a sustainable awareness among the locals. They are also in charge of the organization around trash pick up and recycling. They began in 2016 and have made big progress, but their capacity only allows for people to call them with a big amount of trash, and not for everyday pick up in family homes. Which is why most plastic is still set on fire every night. Right now Bank Samphat are in negotiations with the authorities about getting more funds. The bank can’t just live of plastic, money is needed. 

Sharing fruits and throwing it in the water. Moments before a three year old took the empty bag and threw it in the water.

Tricky habits and revealing tides

From Christianshavns quay spot at the outlet of a big river we have first row tickets to the trash show, currently playing every day and scheduled years ahead. With every high tide plastic bottles in numerous colors are flushing up to the ditches. With every low tide a layer of plastic is revealed in the muddy seabed. Some will be stuck in the mud, other will be carried by the rising water out into the ocean. Out of sight, but not out of mind. In the ocean the big plastic will be degraded into smaller and smaller pieces. At last classified as micro plastic, that can be carried by the currents to even the most remote areas on the world. 

The people in West Papua has traditionally only produced organic trash, since plastic has only been introduced on the market 30-20 years ago by the western model of consumerism. The people we have talked to says that it has been a very quick change in products and packaging and therefore trash beginning in the 1980’s. The habits have not changed proportionally, because the government or manufactures haven’t foreseen the consequences and acted accordingly with awareness or proper systems for recycling. The consumers doesn’t seem to have many options for avoiding plastic or getting rid of it in a responsible way.

A Christmas tree out of plastic bottles: On a local plan there is a competition going on about making the most creative Christmas tree decorations out of plastic. In this family they all work together to have a shot in the competition. The plastic gets a second purpose, but the missing link is still awareness, because the excess plastic from the cutouts are swept into the mud underneath in the cleanup.

In the coming time we will take more field trips to see how the problem is handled and what is being done among locals.






On a plastic expedition in Asia

About me

My name is Margrethe Bojsen, I am a 21-year old ordinary seaman, skater, snowboarder and of course an Ocean Watcher here at Nordic Ocean Watch Denmark.  All of these interests have led me on many interesting adventures around the world, from the skateparks of South Africa to the steep mountains of Austria and across the Atlantic to the Caribbean with the Trainingship Danmark. On my latest journey I worked as a deck-hand on the three masted schooner Linden at Svalbard, sailing with guests on sustainable arctic exploring. Now I am looking forward to gain more knowledge of the situation around plastic pollution in Indonesia and share some of our experiences and discoveries through this blog.  

On a plastic expedition in Asia

From the majestic glaciers of Svalbard in the freezing Arctic Ocean, to the silky beaches of Indonesia in between the warm currents of the Indian and the Pacific ocean. Those are the settings for the two on-going expeditions arranged by the Danish organization Ekspedition Plastik, who works towards solutions, communication and a better understanding of the omnipresent plastic pollution in our oceans. On the 12th of November I will join the seven other crewmembers on Expedition Plastic Asia. With ages between 19 to 64 and skillsets ranging between a YouTuber, a journalist to a mechanic, we will set out on the ship Christianshavn. Powered by sails and curiosity we will explore the situation of plastic pollution in Indonesia and the Philippines. 

The ship Christianshavn will be the base and means of transportation to me and the other crewmembers. The ship awaiting me is a 16,5 meter “Bermuda rigged” sailing yacht in steel, with a 24 meter mast. It was built in Belgium in 1953 by a polarscientist from Antwerpen. Right now the seven other crewmembers is making the ship ready for takeoff from Jajapura to Sorong, where I will meet them. 

What would you bring to a desolated island (besides plastic)?

If you asked Svalbard the old question of “what it would bring to a desolated island?”, the answer would be polar bears, icebergs and frozen fjords. In my own backpack I brought an infinite amount of woolen cloths, raingear and hiking boot. If you asked Indonesia the same question “what it would bring to a desolated island?”, the answer would be vivid blue ocean, one of the worlds best bio-diversities and looong beaches. Currently I am myself packing bathing suits, sunscreen and sandals. 

The recent ecological crisis in our oceans shows that sadly no one has been asking the islands this question. Instead they have unwillingly been brought plastic and continue to be filled up with plastic in dangerous amounts. Luckily some people are speaking up and acting on behalf of the islands’ nature, ecosystem and wildlife. Those are the local people and organizations I am looking forward to meet when I travel to Sorong in West Papua and sail onwards to Cebu in the Philippines.

A plastic fantastic place 

The state of plastic pollution in Indonesia is at an alarming state. A lot of the distressing pictures circulating on the web of beached swamped by plastic and sea turtles with plastic in their airways and digestive system are sadly from Indonesia. Plastic is estimated to contribute around 25,000 tons per day out of Indonesia’s more than 190.000 tons of waste per day. 20 percent is believed to end up in rivers and coastal waters.[1] That is a huge problem as Indonesia holds a very unique bio-diversity that in many ways sustains the lives of Indonesian people and animals.

I am hoping of creating a more nuanced picture of the situation, to supplement cold statistics and viral photos, with insight into the political and cultural dimension of the problem and solutions, which seems to be universal difficulties for a lot of regions. We will broaden our understanding through knowledge sharing with the locals, beach cleanups and gathering samples of the extent of micro plastic in the water around the coast. We will also visit local organizations battling the plastic pollution. So stay tuned. Read more about Ekspedition Plastik.

Margrethe Bojsen

[1] https://www.indonesia-investments.com/news/todays-headlines/environmental-pollution-indonesia-s-battle-against-plastic-waste/item9110